having been in the sambadrome early in december to catch the serious discipline of rocinha’s bateria, we took up the offer of their leader (and our friend) mestre maurão to rehearse with them. a samba-grilling was going to be the order of the evening. the quadra of the samba school is by the exit of the road tunnel (from rich district gávea) through the hill pictured. as a contrast rocinha is one of the largest favelas, and as the sambadrome has its oscar niemeyer designed arch (praça da apoteose), so (now) does rocinha… and here are some of us standing on it after the rehearsal. forget christ the redeemer, beaches, sequins and sugar-loaf cablecar… this is the most beautiful sight of the city.